CREATED
10.4.22
AIMS
Create my first amber accord.
INSPIRATIONS
Amber. Warm resin. Cool evergreens.
STRENGTH
24.7% (Extrait)
CREATION
I am using a formula from creative-formulas.com. I have all the materials I need except Ambrocenide. I am excited to see how it turns out. I plan on the first fragrance I release to be an amber type so I will use what I learn today to help out with creating that.
To start, I added way to much cistus oil - about 20 times the amount it called for. This was not on purpose. It is because I am using my materials at full strength and so It is hard to add such a tiny amount doing drops like I am doing. Cistus oil is pungent and it ends up being fairly pronounced in the final composition. It is not necessarily offensive but it’s probably causing the aroma to lean more balsamic than amber. Methyl diantillis is a good choice to introduce a bit of spice and dryness.
I am not sure why this formula calls for both vanillin and ethyl vanillin. Both of these materials smell very similar however the ethyl vanillin has a bit more sassafras or root beer undertones. I could probably use one or the other in the future.
Labdanum provides the resinous quality you want in an amber accord. It is balsamic and smells very similar to sweet vermouth. Benzoin was intended to make up more of the final composition however I ran out of room in my vial. Benzoin provides a sweet earthiness to the fragrance. This particular form of it smells chocolate-like.
Galaxolide was an unexpected material for me. I don’t think much of musk when I think of amber however it is nice at the end of the dry down when only the musk and vanilla remains. I know galaxolide is often used as a fixative and I suspect that’s why it is in this formula.
I decided to add some ambroxan in place of ambrocenide since I don’t have that material. Ambroxan is a great smelling woody/musk material that I thought could balance out the final aroma.
After letting it sit for a few days I am pleased with how it came out. It is a balsamic amber that is for sure. That’s perfect because I like them more balsamic than warm. I feel happy with my first attempt and I know that they will keep getting better from here. I already have a few ideas of new things I want to try with the next version.
FORMULATION
| Material | Category | Conc. |
| Benzoin Oliffac 63 | Base | 15.9% |
| Galaxolide | Base | 3.9% |
| Vanillin | Base | 1.7% |
| Ambroxan | Base | 1.2% |
| Labdanum Resinoid | Mid | 0.9% |
| Cistus Oil | Base | 0.6% |
| Methyl Diantillis | Mid | 0.5% |
| Ethyl Vanillin | Base | 0.2% |
| Ethyl Alcohol | Carrier | 75.3% |
